Picking Up the Pieces
Picking Up the Pieces
This photo of Alex Gottfried of New York was covered rejected as "too glamorous"
Not everyone can read his obituary in The New York Times. Indeed, not everyone has the obituary early in the Times. So I guess it was a triumph of the class. I was fired and the registration document really care. Friends from around the world saw the story and sent reinforcements words. I read yesterday morning with my heart pounding. Not exactly what I've written but … type almost completely. It was sort of tone. And a revelation. I did not know any editor objected to my choice of restaurants for review or cooks pedestal. I just danced merrily away thinking if I was interested, the gourmet public attention and if I loved most of you love him. That same incurable … I call it confidence or vanity?
I wish my critics and reporters were not quite so hung up on how many celebrity chefs or beds. (Funny Way say. Like who beds who?) But then it is clear that brought me to myself to be very sincere in my memories. I thought that was funny took me to the bedroom the lovely young Elvis Presley for fifty years because I just happened to be the only woman in his hotel room at the time of their between-concerts horniness. And he asked me to order a fried egg sandwich later.
The fact that I did not have the character to resist romantic dalliances with chefs a restaurant critic has always seemed unprofessional and risky for me. But there are no secrets in the world of food little tight. oral personalities, you know. I it was better to confess before I have left out. But considering there were only three chefs and three restaurants in 40 years of reviewing restaurants, I do not as an addiction or a felony. I think it sounds as if I was not trying hard enough.
I say thank God for the times man Glenn Collins his reportorial surveillance could reach the historian Michael Batterberry venerable dining revolution in America, operator with his wife Ariane Food Arts and before that, the founders of Food & Wine magazine. He put my compulsory retirement unexpectedly in historical perspective. "It's like if they took the lions of the stairs to the library, "he said. Dear Michael. And a toast to Robert Lape also stating that I have not lost my taste or my bite.
I promise you will not see me dancing with the stars.
No lipstick on this pig
A daunting set of pork in the revised version of Irving Mill. Photo: Steven Richter
There are people from pigs and humans without pork. Personally, I find many who are neutral about my people. When it comes to pigging is us and them, those who eat pork faith, health, activism animals or the fear of the unknown. Not that they will not find support in the menu Irving Mill. I say, go in good health. They have eggplant and ricotta bruschetta, oil windfall. Try sunchoke and hazelnut soup with grilled escarole, the loup de mer with quinoa nuts and soybeans. I could go for the chicken aristocratic two four-story Hill Farm me if I were not so distracted by so much creativity porky.
The three are drawn by the obsession of swine Chef Ryan Skeen. "Oh God," said Ava "It's all pork. I have the pig's ear salad. "Unfortunately, prove crisis not cartilage with chicory, endive and poached egg on top. Has been "eighty-sixed," the waitress tells us sadly, as saying, "And do not blame me "I look around the room with new respect. – Is a pig's ear salad crowd beat us to it? I wonder.
Irving Mill plans to add new images and more color to this vast expanse of the room. Photo: Steven Richter
I never fathomed where Skeen Rest your fetish. But now has come at John Fraser obstructions in Irving Mill. And at night, the place has Gramercy Tavern last-lite urban poultry. Spicy pulled pork sandwich – two sliders little soft potato buns – are frankly less. But fried minced pork toast – I think roasted shrimp in Chinatown – egg salad with sour cream and a pinch of caviar on top is strange and wonderful. Fall bone salt and pepper ribs, first marinated in soy and chile and lime, then stewed, fried and placed on a bowl of soup – they are simply wonderful.
You must try the burger too. Iconic and food blogs, is a piece of carefully shaped flap meat stuffed with minced backfat, running-red-rare, under a cheddar cheese melt on another soft potato bread. In the bowl of riding next to the fry do a little moist, slightly raised potatoes and there is a choice of ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard.
Way of the Warrior pappardelle Food with rabbit sauce, grilled tomatoes and black olives just fabulous appears to be a porky relief issue, but it is not given a hint of guanciale (cured pork jowl). More is urgently needed to qualify as a pasta dough. And then the greed of our warm, my plate charcroute seems very daunting. "I ordered the smallest size $ 22," I tell our server smart and nice.
"You got it," she says, setting out a tray with grainy mustard, cream and purple mustard (with the flavor and color of grape juice).
"He is someone who does not just throw in some extras?
"No, that's what comes," he insists.
The rabbit needs more delicious pappardelle pasta and less soup. Photo: Steve Richter
Of course you have to try a little all – it's my job (even if New York is not funding my research more). I start with a cut blanc mini sausage and blood sausage (a passion especially mine, best delivered in measured amounts, unfortunately). And with academic precision, showing a bit of fusion of the pig's head, some pork a bit of flesh torn from one of the ribs (another taste test the consistency is never over.) My favorite is the foot of pork, boneless, breaded and fried compact license. Even a side of kale is lush, wine and shallots cooked in rich butter. In fact, the macaroni and cheese with pork rinds is the only serious disappointment. It is not pork rinds I care. sludge ears pasta with cheese is not my idea of macaroni.
No skip dessert. Enjoy the banana fritters and apple parfait. Photo: Steven Richter
What we all need now is a jog around the block, but I feel obliged to treat at least one dessert. A blonde ice cream ice cream with hot chocolate butter, caramel and nuts with spices whiskey seems embrace pretty sweet endings to the story. "Fabulous" is the title. And as Suzanne Vega, one of the three partners has seen me, apple fritters and banana "cream parfait pie" has been forced to us. I never realized pastry chef Colleen Grapes before, although she has been around the first assistant to work under Aja Gary Robbins, but his remarkable apple fritters – Aros packaging of the whole block with cinnamon ice cream seem consider her for stardom. And the banana parfait with roasted banana cream ice, coconut macaroons, vanilla and chocolate cream layered in a glass is even better. Of Suddenly it seems criminal to leave any behind.
I find myself recalling a table of women in La Costa Vasca years ago, sharing a dessert and then pour water over it to prevent a breakdown in discipline.
Definitely I have unfinished business at Irving Mill. The partners are planning more work of art, more color, more contemporary look. As if I needed an excuse to go back beyond the casserole of lamb leg, loin and belly, possibly also bacon. Brunch starts this week too, and Skeen reflection is all porky favorite with baked eggs with caviar, truffles and pork, oysters and cream BLT grilled corn cakes with blueberry jam. I like the way your brain works.
116 East 16th Street between Irving Place and Park Avenue South. 212 254 1600
I'll bring the Turkey
Host Ed Schoenfeld provides Jacques Torres brilliant bird. Photo: Steven Richter
It is not uncommon that a New Yorker transplanted from somewhere that friends are my family, essentially "we" of me as my real family is scattered all over the country. For the past several years our "family" has joy Eddie Schoenfeld choreography and cook Thanksgiving dinner. This year, Eddie and his wife Elisa expanded the congregation of three tables. Eddie had wings and thighs only, which was perfect for this mostly dark meat crowd. Eliza capped an eclectic festival with prunes in port and fresh cream, evoking memories of long ago great time to prune late in the Troisgros restaurant.
Jacques Torres was asked if I'd like a chocolate turkey. "Take your dinner, "he said," and tell everyone that was made by Jacques Torres. "On Wednesday afternoon, went through his shop half a block from my office. The bird was huge and magnificent, carved in black chocolate, and actually looked like a three-dimensional Audubon. My boyfriend and I had to take a taxi for fear that someone might encounter with her on the subway. Elisa Eddie and hid in a closet so it does not show results innocent the ball before his debut. After dinner I put the turkey in a beautiful Meissen tray and handed it to Eddie. Some of the guests stepped back in amazement. I had to break the first piece. "Jacques Torres," I said.
"Oh, of course, Jacques Torres, "someone echoed. Every little bite led to a second. Unlike all commercial turkeys chocolate I tried, it was a decent chocolate from Jacques Torres.
285 city, between 73 and 74 streets. 212 414 2462
Honor your pasta
Fiore dinner always starts with a thin crust pizzas on the grill … Photo Steven Richter
During forty years my life has revolved around more or less the dinner (with the waiting time for dancing, sex and fall in love) why should that change, especially in this, the foodiest time of year?
On Saturday night we went with our dear friends Fiore in Williamsburg, only four of us. It had not been since late June, when our good friends took his car and moved into the lake during the summer. In Brooklyn nobody seems know that I've been fired and I have to be brave and pretend I'm fine. A hug from chef-owner Roberto Aita could be just a welcome back. He puts us in a table in front of the gate, just behind where the direction of the kitchen of the transfer. A waiter recites the specials. "Is it OK antipastini if I make a few for you? "Roberto asked. We have been good.
It is hard to resist the fried squid hill and Fiore zucchini. Photo: Steven Richter
It's wonderfully distracting concise focus on issues like Hillary must agree to become secretary of state and what to do with Bill. Roberto drink recommendation for a red by the glass, Negroamaro from Puglia, and discover that you agree Hillary is bright and half of us think that Bill will behave. Two of us think that Bill is the jewel in the crown of Hillary.
Roberto is delivered pizza to grilled formaggio with two cheeses, tomato and black pepper, very crisp and a convenient means happy among the refined and abundant. Ava and I are planning to share mushroom salad and butternut squash Roast – back on the menu now for the fall. Then comes a plate for each of us different from last year. Frisee makes it lighter. Roberto sets a plate of baby octopus cooked sauces intensely on the table and returns with a mountain of fried zucchini calamaretti a few groans. We dare not speak its name, but I confess that we had all planned and rejected – all that fat. The mere putty in the hands of fate, devour. As always, Tim seems content with a generous portion of fish, tonight orat. The Way of the Warrior sticks with its timeless Food bucatini Amatriciana favorites. And Ava and I share the fine seafood pasta special.
As usual, no one wants dessert after too generous portions and extras that come in that style you can go home again. But of course, a trio of desserts down. Chocolate and almond cake. A lemon tart. And smart tart lemon sorbet that is to be the perfect last taste.
284 Grand Street between Roebling and Havemeyer Street. Brooklyn 718 782 8222
About the Author
travel & food writer
Williamsburg, Brooklyn – Premium Photographic Print